Renter guide 5 of 7

Arriving at the campsite and setting up

You got it here. Now it has to turn into a home for the week. There is an order to this, stand, chocks, level, steadies, then power, gas and water. Stick to it and the fridge gets cold and nothing trips at midnight.

10 min read Updated

A Jurgens Penta pop-top caravan under trees with a groundsheet, camp chairs and a cooler box
Photo: a Kampi listing

The order, before you touch anything

Most first timers climb out, wind the steadies down, plug in the power, and only then notice the caravan is not level. Now everything comes up again. Do it in this order and it goes once. Give yourself an hour the first time; it gets quick after that.

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Choosing the stand

Ask at the office which stands are open, then walk them before you commit. Morning sun, afternoon shade. Work out where the wind comes from, because you want the caravan's body between the wind and the tent. Skip the lowest patch of ground, that is where the rain ends up, and look up for dead branches. The stand on the ridge with the view is also the windiest one in the park.

Then the practical bits. Close enough to the ablutions to walk there in the dark, far enough that you do not hear the door bang all night, and a way out you can drive forward on the morning you pack up in the rain.

Handbrake, chocks and unhitching

Once the caravan is where you want it, pull the handbrake lever all the way up. The AL-KO chassis handbook is blunt about it: the handbrake only re-applies the brakes on a backwards roll when the lever is fully upright. Half way up is not on. Chock both wheels before you unhitch, not after, and leave the chocks in for as long as the caravan stands disconnected. On a slope, doubly so.

Unhitching is the hitching sequence from the collecting guide run backwards. Chocks in, lights plug and breakaway cable off, jockey wheel down and wound until the coupling is carrying no weight, then release the coupling.

Levelling, in three moves

Levelling a caravan: ramp, chocks, jockey wheel, then corner steadies Front view: a caravan with the low side wheel driven onto a ramp, chocks at the wheels, a spirit level on the roof. Side view: a spirit level on the A-frame, the jockey wheel adjusting front to back, and the corner steadies wound down last, only enough to stop the rocking. From the front1ramp, low side2chocks both sidesFrom the sidelevel3nose: jockey wheel4steadies last
1 Levelling a caravan: ramp, chocks, jockey wheel, then corner steadies

Side to side comes first, while you are still hitched, because the bakkie can drive the low wheel onto a ramp or a block for you. Spirit level across the floor, low wheel up the ramp, check again, chock. Now unhitch. Front to back is the jockey wheel: wind it until a level on the A-frame reads flat.

Only now do the corner steadies come down, and only until they bite. Corner steadies are not jacks. The AL-KO handbook says so in capitals, and the forum threads about cracked floors and doors that stopped closing explain why: lifting on them twists the chassis and splits sealant. They stop the rocking. That is all.

Why bother? Mostly the 3-way fridge: an absorption fridge needs to sit within about 2.5 degrees of level or it stops cooling properly. Level also means the door closes and the sink drains. And nobody slides out of bed.

Hooking up to 220 V

Hooking up to 220 V at a caravan park: power point, 16 A plug, lead, inlet, earth leakage test A caravan park power point with a 16 amp caravan plug, a lead running fully unrolled to the inlet on the caravan wall, and an inset of the caravan's earth leakage switch with its T test button called out. Switch the power off before plugging in or pulling out. Power point16 A caravan pluglead fully unrolledCaravaninletInside the caravanTTrip switch:press T, itmust trip.Power off before you plug in or pull out.
2 Hooking up to 220 V at a caravan park: power point, 16 A plug, lead, inlet, earth leakage test

South African caravan parks fit a blue 16 A round socket on the power point. If the caravan's lead ends in an ordinary three pin plug you need a 16 A to three pin adaptor. Find that out at handover, not at the park at dusk.

Unroll the lead completely before you draw any load. A lead still coiled on its reel with a kettle running through it heats up inside the coil. Switch the power point off, plug in at the caravan first, then at the point, then switch on. Disconnect the other way round, point first, so you are never holding a live plug end.

Inside the caravan, find the earth leakage switch and press its test button. It must trip. Reset it. The button only proves the mechanism moves, not how sensitive it is, but a switch that will not trip on its own button is not one you trust.

Most park boxes feed several stands through one earth leakage unit, and it does not reset itself, so when it trips the whole row goes dark. Why that happens, and what the battery and 12 V side will run without park power, is on the living in the caravan page.

Gas

Gas safety: 9 kg cylinder, regulator, soapy water test on the joints, and ventilation A 9 kg LPG cylinder standing upright in a vented locker with a regulator and a dated hose to the caravan. A spray bottle of soapy water applied to a joint shows bubbles that mean a leak. Arrows show air entering a low vent and leaving a high vent in the caravan wall; the low vents stay open because LPG is heavier than air. Gas off at the cylinder before towing. 9 kgcylinderUpright, in avented lockerHose: check its dateBubbles = a leakSoapy water onevery joint afteryou connect itair outair inkeep low vents openGas off at the cylinder before you tow.
3 Gas safety: 9 kg cylinder, regulator, soapy water test on the joints, and ventilation

The cylinder lives outside the living space. SANS 10087-2, the caravan gas standard, says LPG containers may not be installed inside a mobile unit. They stand upright in a compartment sealed off from the inside and vented to the outside. The locker vents sit low because LPG is heavier than air. Never block them.

Before you open the cylinder, check that the bracket is tight and the regulator's washer or O ring is there and not perished. Open the valve slowly, then brush soapy water onto every joint you touched: cylinder to regulator, regulator to hose, hose to caravan. Bubbles mean a leak. Close the valve, remake the joint, test again.

Gas appliances inside need air. The standard requires permanent ventilation openings wherever a non-room-sealed appliance is installed, so leave the wall vents open, even on a cold night when every instinct says tape them shut.

Water and the fridge

Fill the fresh tank or connect the hose, then run the pump at the tap until it stops spitting. Ask reception where the dump point is while you are there, because grey water and the toilet cassette go to it and not onto the grass. Get the fridge going now, on mains or gas: on 12 V it only holds temperature, and pulling a warm fridge down to cold takes hours. Drinking water, grey water, the cassette and the battery are all on the living in the caravan page.

The tent or awning

Get the owner to put it up in front of you at handover. A rally tent they can pitch without thinking will take you a lot longer the first time. Pitch it on the side away from the wind, caravan as the windbreak, heavy duty pegs, storm straps at a wide angle. The commonest awning failure is not enough pegs. Not the wind. The pegs.

Know when not to put it up. If it is already blowing hard, leave it in the bag until the wind drops. Never try to take an awning down in a gust; drop it before the weather arrives. And a tent gives you no protection in a thunderstorm. If lightning is close, get in the bakkie.

Campsite manners

Every park has its rules on a board at reception, and they differ. ATKV resorts, for example, enforce quiet from 22:00 to 07:00, allow no music systems and no pets except guide dogs, and limit you to one vehicle per stand. SANParks camps check you in from 14:00, out by 10:00, and do not allow you to collect firewood. Read the board. The unwritten rules are simpler: do not walk through other people's stands, and say hello. Caravan parks run on neighbours.

Common mistakes

  • Winding the steadies down to level the caravan
  • Plugging in with the power point live, or unplugging at the caravan end first
  • Running the lead off a half coiled reel
  • Unhitching before the chocks are in
  • Leaving the fridge on 12 V and wondering why the milk is warm
  • Putting the tent up in the wind because the kids are impatient

Common questions

How long does it take to set up a caravan?
About an hour the first time, and do not rush it. Once you have done it twice the whole thing, tent included, takes a fraction of that. Choosing the stand and getting the caravan level are the slow bits, and both are worth it.
Do I level the caravan with the corner steadies?
No, and this is the one that costs owners money. The steadies stop the caravan rocking once it is already level, that is all they do. Wind one down to lift a corner and you twist the chassis; do it every trip and floors crack and sealant splits. Level with a ramp under the low wheel and the jockey wheel, then wind the steadies down until they just touch.
What order should I level a caravan in?
Side to side first, by driving the low wheel onto a ramp or block while you are still hitched. Chock, unhitch, then level front to back with the jockey wheel. Last, wind the corner steadies down to firm contact. Side, nose, steadies.
What plug do I need at a South African caravan park?
Most parks have a blue 16 A round socket on the power point. A caravan lead with the matching blue plug goes straight in. If the lead ends in an ordinary three pin plug you need a 16 A to three pin adaptor, which any caravan shop sells. Ask the owner at handover what is on the end of the lead.
How do I check the gas for leaks?
Cylinder valve open, then spray or brush soapy water onto every joint you touched, at the cylinder, the regulator and the hose ends. Bubbles mean a leak. Close the valve, redo the connection, test again. Never, ever test with a match or a lighter.

Go further

Sources (27)

  1. SANS 10087-2:2011, LPG systems in mobile units including caravans (archived copy)
  2. National Road Traffic Regulations, 2000, Regulation 151, brakes on trailers
  3. AL-KO caravan chassis handbook, handbrake, chocks and corner steadies
  4. CaravanSA, Caravan Clinic 12, levelling order
  5. Practical Caravan forum, corner steadies are not jacks
  6. CaravanSA forum, Jurgens Penta corner steadies
  7. Pitchup, pitching a touring caravan, unhitching order
  8. Bailey of Bristol, beginner's guide to towing and reversing
  9. Auto Cape Accessories, caravan park plug adaptor 220 V 16 A
  10. 4x4 Direct, 16 A 220 V caravan plug
  11. Caravan Parks forum, SANS 10142-1 caravan park electrical annex summary
  12. SANS 10142-1 electrical installations (municipal copy)
  13. Electrical Contractors Board, testing to SANS 10142-1, the RCD test button
  14. Arrive Alive, safety with gas
  15. Elgas, caravan gas bottle holder, regulator and hose
  16. How a 3-way caravan fridge works, levelling tolerance
  17. Renogy, running an absorption fridge on battery while driving
  18. CaravanSA, keeping the wind out of your caravan camp
  19. Caravan Coach, awnings and wind
  20. Campsmart, how much wind can a caravan awning take
  21. Camper Nation, caravan awnings in high winds
  22. Hiking South Africa, lightning safety
  23. IWMSA, waste legislation FAQ
  24. ATKV Resorts, terms and conditions
  25. SANParks, park regulations
  26. Kampi, Kampi Care pre-trip checklist
  27. Kampi, the complete guide to renting a caravan in South Africa

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